Bringing New Puppy Home Part 1

Congratulations! You’ve finally made your choice and are bringing your new puppy home… but wait… what about all the unanswered questions? How can you get off to a good start? What do you need to buy? This two part article will help you prepare by answering some of the most common questions from new puppy parents.

õ  Who is a good vet?  

Sensible K9 has had a great relationship with the six veterinarians at the two Michigan Road Animal Hospitals for years. We also hear good things about veterinarians at a variety of hospitals around the area. Finding a veterinarian is like finding a sports coach – all of them can be good for different reasons – it just depends what you are looking for. Each doctor is unique and appreciated for their varied abilities and strengths. When you are looking for a veterinarian for your puppy, it’s great to develop a relationship with one veterinarian so that your puppy has a consistency of care. If your doctor stays the same throughout the puppy’s first year especially, he or she will quickly notice if any particular developmental issues need to be addressed. Find the veterinarian whose approach and style match your own. Do you appreciate a veterinarian who attends continuing education and stays up to date on the most modern techniques? Is a particular area of interest like nutrition or behavior important to you? Ask questions before you go. Inquire about certifications and personal passions – these will provide clues as to the continuing education your veterinarian is most likely to keep up on.

õ  What do I do in the first 4 days the puppy is home to get potty training done as quickly and effectively as possible?

Great question! PREVENTION is key. The most common mistake new puppy owners make is to give the puppy too much freedom too soon. Instead, take the puppy out more frequently than you think he needs to go until you establish his elimination pattern. Puppies generally need to eliminate upon waking, after eating and drinking, during play and anytime there’s a transition in the room (for example, new people come in or you change from one activity to another.) Be sure to reward your puppy for going potty outside – this will boost his desire to eliminate outside, in front of you! Otherwise, he gets an empty bladder and comfort no matter where he goes- it’s all the same to him.

õ  Do you have suggestions of local places to get pet supplies that are good?  Yes! I love to shop at these local places: Carmel: Platinum Paws (Michigan Road– love their knowledge of great pet foods and emphasis on nutrition and they are the best grooming shop around!); Canine Cloud Nine (Arts &Design district – love their hand-made boutique treats and self-serve dog wash! Plus, just a cool place to visit for puppy socialization!) Zionsville: Choosy Pet – they carry simply the best line of high quality toys and all the supplies you’ll ever need to spoil your puppy.

Coming soon…Part Two: What STUFF do I buy?

Easy CHILL

Here's an easy way to beat the heat and feed a treat!
Fill plastic container with beef or chicken broth, some crunchable treats and maybe a rawhide or other delectable chew.  (You can even use a stuffed Kong!) Freeze overnight. To extract the giant icee, just turn container upside-down and run a little water on it.  It'll pop right out.
Put it outside (It's really messy!) on a hot day and let your dogs enjoy!
Be sure to keep dogs apart while high value items are down or and/or supervise closely to prevent resource guarding/aggression between dogs.

It's better than watching TV, observing each dog's particular style of enjoyment!

Here are some relatively lo-cal options to try:

• broth and green beans
• a few TBSP peanut butter mixed with water to liquefy then add some chopped apples.
• frozen mixed veggies and one piece of jerky, chopped fine
•  chopped bananas and a few spoonfuls of yogurt - add to the water and blend.

What other ideas do you have? Please add to the comments and brainstorm with me!

Living in Fear?

When I was a child, my best little friend was named Kathy. She was a year younger than I and the second youngest of a family of 6 children. She lived with her mother, siblings and step-father. I was too young to know where her biological dad was. I only knew that her step-father was an un-yielding man with a fierce temper and a fast fist. Kathy was terrified of him. One time I spent the night at her house and she had accidentally soiled her sheets. In the dark hours of the morning, we tried to get a load of laundry going so she could avoid the beating that would surely come. We failed. She was six years old. It still doesn’t make any sense to me.  

Another time, I remember her cowering, literally, at the dinner table as her brother was verbally abused and screamed at in front of the whole family (and guests). I don’t remember what for – I only remember the fear that was tangible. Don’t cross dad. He will hurt you. Message received.

Recently, I arrived at a client’s home to counsel them about their dog’s aggression to other dogs. I was met at the door by the most beautiful and sweet young dog who attempted to greet me with wiggles and some jumping up. He was prevented from doing so by harsh voice corrections and yanks on a leash which was attached to a prong collar with tiny sharp spikes digging into his smooth-coated neck. “No!”-yank – dog winced – “No!” yank – dog winced, licked his lips, dropped his tail, backed up, fearful of this intruder who brought the pain to the doorway. The dog’s owner had been instructed by another trainer to intimidate, to cause pain, to frighten her dog into obedience. The dog was changing, yes, but his eyes looked at me and said, “Did you cause my pain?”

Our consultation lasted a long time. I laid the foundation for understanding their dogs by reading canine body language. I introduced the concept that fear and pain will increase aggression. “But the other trainer said our dog was being dominant.” We talked about social relationships; the give-and-take versus categorical labels. We talked about training constructs and the over-simplification of a training regimen that is the same for all dogs. Their dogs were sensitive, I observed. They knew that. Their dogs would not do well with a punishment-based training method. Their dogs would increase the anxiety and aggression if they did not cease working with that other trainer’s methods.

I said, “You have to choose which bus you are going to get on.” “But we already bought our tickets (paid for the training classes by the prong-only trainer).” Ultimately I replied: “If the bus you are on is heading off a cliff, your tickets won’t do you much good.”  I warned them if they continued hurting their dogs in an attempt to stop the aggression, not only would it not stop it, but it would become much worse and begin being redirected toward them and toward other people. They knew that. They had already seen it happen, which was the catalyst to hire me to find another way. Kudos to them. We scheduled a follow-up lesson so we could work on more skills.

I believe it won’t be long before their dogs will change into more relaxed, more confident, more gently social dogs with proper rehabilitation and using non-force, modern methods of dog training. The dogs won’t have to live in fear that they will face pain upon the presence of a new person or another dog. Instead, they can anticipate fun, food and play when visitors and dogs show up. Not only will we change their behavior, but we’ll change the relationship the owners have with their dogs.

It’s not okay to make someone live in fear. Not a child. Not a dog. As dog owners and trainers, we have a right and a responsibility to be educated about dog body language and about humane and sympathetic training methods. Fear can change behavior. But should that be your primary method of communication with those you love?

My friend Kathy lived in fear of her dad until she was old enough to escape. I don’t know whether she ever overcame her issues with men but I do know she ended up making some bad choices as a result of the fear she’d lived with all her life. Her brothers and sister all did jail time for various crimes. Some of her brothers became very violent men. Learning can happen when fear is the teacher – but are you teaching the message you really want?

I couldn’t do anything about Kathy back then. Now, I can’t do anything about the choices that other trainer is making with his abusive, self-centered, fear-based training method. But, because my new clients are willing to trust me, and because they really love their dogs, I have an opportunity to teach them a new way– a way that will bring peace, trust and hope into their household. I am so grateful they called and are willing to learn what their dogs are truly saying.

Help Me!

Roughly 18 years ago, I was trying to help a friend train her dog. Shaka was a Rhodesian Ridgeback who wouldn't come when called. I grew up watching heavy-handed police and working dog trainers and had recently apprenticed with a no-food, no-nonsense, correction-based trainer. I was physically strong and believed the best way to teach a dog do something was to just to make him do it. So there I was in a small, fenced-in area with the dog, his owner and a leash. I did a few on-leash recalls and said, "Yeah, the dog knows it". I unclipped the leash and set him free. He was a rambunctious adolescent and quickly busied himself sniffing and exploring. "Come." No response. I did what I had been trained to do: I walked him down.

The walk-down is an intimidation technique followed by harsh punishment. Basically, you make the dog more scared of NOT coming than of coming and he figures out he'd better come when you call, no matter what. It can be very fast, but it's ugly (and not anything I would do now; you'll soon see why).

At first Shaka tried to escape by outrunning me and when I persisted to stalk him, direct eye contact and confrontational body language, he clung to his owner. "Help me." I instructed her to ignore him and she did. Shaka fled what should have been safety and kept running from me until I cornered him. I attached the leash to his choke chain and "COME!" yanked; "COME!" yanked and "COME" yanked. Unclipped his leash. Repeated as necessary until Shaka gave up and stopped, tail down, beaten in spirit, unwilling to fight. At that point, the technique changed and I called softly, "Come". Shaka had no where else to run, no one to provide safety and he took a hesitant step in my direction.

Leaving my methodology for a minute, let's consider: What did I teach that dog? (My stomach knots up at this video in my brain... knowing what I know about canine body language and how Shaka was begging for help from his mom who stood stoically by, allowing me to hurt him.) What did I teach my friend about her relationship with her dog? That she's no shelter? That she can't stop this human whacko from hurting her beloved buddy? That any professional has the right to abuse your dog because certainly they know better?

Today a client told me that her dog hates vets. Here's why: The dog tore his ACL and was certainly in a lot of pain. Several well-meaning friends told her she had to take the dog to a certain veterinarian who is an expert in that particular breed and is the only one who should do surgery on a dog of that breed because he's the expert. My client brought her dog there. Upon entering the exam room and without speaking to the dog's owner, the veterinarian literally tackled the dog to the floor, pinning him. The dog struggled. "He looked up at me with pleading eyes, asking for my help," my sad client admitted. The vet overpowered the dog. He did the surgery. But they don't go there anymore. Not surprisingly, this dog has tried to bite the new veterinarian when an exam is performed. Not the technicians. Not anyone else in the clinic. Not anyone outside of a veterinary hospital. Just the vets. The dog had asked for help from the only person who could have given it but she had abdicated her authority over her pet. Her mistake was trusting the expert. Just like my friend, all those years ago.

To his great credit and as a stellar testimony to his outstanding temperament, gorgeous Shaka did not bite me. Neither did other dogs I treated in a similar fashion. Of course not because if they fought back, they lost and never forgot that lesson. I wonder how many of them, though, learned to hate "trainers?" I'll never know but the very thought makes me cry.

You. Are your dog's advocate. YOU are his protector. Don't allow anyone to mishandle your dog. Period. Not if he is a a friend. Not if she is a trainer. Not if he is an expert. Not when your dog is clearly asking for help. You have the right and even the responsibility to say, "Hey! STOP. NOW!" Take your dog and leave. It's not rude. It's right.

Shaka forgave my idiocy. So did my friend, thankfully. I don't train that way any more. I have learned to listen to the dogs better. I have learned that their motivations can be harnessed to change their behavior.

Training is a lot more fun these days and I am glad to be in a position to pass along this story in hopes that you will make good choices about whom you hand your leash to and that you remember your dog is YOUR property and as such you have the power to tell people how they should treat him. (By the way, that's a right you'll give up if you are only a "guardian" so don't settle for less than the ability to protect your dog completely!)

Be there for him if he ever looks at you and says, "Help me!" Better yet, ask more questions before you hand over the leash or give someone access to your furry friend who trusts you.

TUG is Not Evil

“Won’t playing Tug-of-War with my dog make him aggressive?”

In short, no. I have lived with dozens of dogs of different breeds, personalities and intensities. I have played Tug with all of them. Not one of them ever became aggressive or guarded items from me. Instead, they usually brought me items more readily because I am apt to suggest a game with them! I have counseled hundreds of dog owners to safely play Tug with their dogs. You can, too, so long as your follow some basic rules, listed below. But first, let’s discuss why you should play Tug of War with your dog. Then we’ll cover the how’s of tug and finally the rules to remember.

Why Tug?
Ever watch a group of puppies play? Aside from wrestling and biting at each other with mighty puppy growls, a favorite pastime is to grab an item and initiate “chase me” or “tug”. Since puppies naturally enjoy playing tug, I believe it’s important to use the game as a way to teach them self-control and to have soft-mouths toward people. Additionally, some dogs prefer a game of Tug to any food treat or praise reward. For example, my golden retriever earned his agility titles for the simple prospect of a great game of Tug at the end of each of his course-runs. It was the best motivator for him!

Tug can be a great tool to teach bite inhibition. If a puppy is enjoying a tug game and it ENDS the second his teeth touched your skin and you yell, “OUCH!”, your puppy will learn that, in order to keep the fun going, he’d better be more careful with his aim. Attention to this detail carries over to his entire relationship with you… people HURT and fun STOPS when you bite them! A great idea for your puppy to get cemented in his head, early.

Finally, I teach impulse control using Tug. Once a puppy understands to release the toy (which I teach simply by exchanging for a treat or by saying “give” and gently removing it from the puppy’s mouth), I ask the puppy to release the toy and then, Sit. The second the puppy’s rear hits the floor, I quickly bring the tug toy out in front of me, hands far apart, and say, “Get it!” The game resumes. Once puppy understands that his good behavior starts the game again, you can lengthen the duration of the sit, or ask for other behaviors (such as great leash manners, polite greetings and so forth). If the puppy gets up or bites at the tug toy before I give permission, I raise it high in the air or hide it behind my back until the puppy sits again and waits patiently. The puppy learns to wait, to not jump up and grab immediately. This message carries over: If I want something, I am more likely to get it by sitting and waiting, not grabbing.

How To Tug
First, start with the right toy. Fleece is easier on young puppy mouths. Older dogs can usually handle a firmer grip such as that needed with a rope or rubber tug. I like visiting Goodwill or Salvation Army to purchase used fleece blankets. I cut the fabric into long strips and braid them together to make tug toys several feet long. Smaller tug toys can be found, but if I can hold my hands 2 feet apart, the puppy will have a better chance of grabbing the fabric and not my skin, teaching appropriate bite-targeting, in the beginning. If you aren’t “crafty”, you can purchase fleece tugs through your favorite pet supply retailer.

Pull the tug toy along the ground in front of your puppy to get him interested in the item. When he grabs it, give it a gentle shake back and forth. Be careful to keep his front feet on the ground at all times and avoid potentially harmful jerking motions. Young puppies aren’t as tough as they seem, and older dogs are at greater risk of injury.

During tug, it is normal for your puppy to clench his teeth firmly and even to growl. Some sound mighty fierce! Usually, though, it’s just play. To be sure, check the dog’s body language. If the dog’s body remains supple and bendy, wiggly and loose, then it surely is play. However, if his body suddenly becomes stiff, if hackles (the hair between the shoulder blades or on the rump) are raised or if your dog become white-eyed, hard-staring or grabs back a dropped tug with frightening intensity, it’s best to quit the game and consult with a professional. Tug may not be a good game for this dog.

To teach your puppy to grab at the tug and not your hands, begin by having your hands very far apart. You want your puppy to enjoy the game, not to fear doing something wrong. As your puppy gains experience and becomes a tug-enthusiast, work your hands closer together, making the bite-target area smaller until your puppy has to find the bite-target within only 8-12 inches of tug space between your hands. When he is proficient at that, you will know you have a much safer dog for tug games and can begin including other people in the play.

Rules of the Tug Game:

1. Dogs with possession issues, guarding behaviors or bite histories should never play Tug.

2. Children under 11 should never play Tug. Generally, they lack the wisdom to keep the game safe. Children older than 11 should be closely supervised by a responsible adult to ensure safety for both dog and child.

3. Human must always be the Tug game initiator. Dog should not offer “Tug” on an item without the person suggesting the game. Tug should only be on a particular type of toy, not all toys.

4. Tug toy must be at least 18 inches long for safety.

5. Dog must immediately release toy when asked. Once a dog has been taught how to do this, failure to release immediately ends the game for at least an hour.

6. Dog must intermittently obey obedience commands (such as Sit or Down) in the middle of a Tug game, in order to earn the right for the game to continue. Failure to comply ends the game.

7. If dog teeth touch human skin (or clothing), the Tug game stops immediately and the toy is put away.

8. Dog should win the toy and bring it back to you. If dog wins the toy and runs away with it, Tug is not a game for that dog without further training.

9. Keep your body loose and supple during tug. Avoid staring into your dog’s eyes or challenging him for a dropped tug toy. Remember, this is FUN and should remain PLAYFUL for all involved.

So, on these wintery days when walks are painful, enhance your relationship and training with your dog by including a fun, safe game of Tug. It won’t make your dog aggressive any more than playing football makes your son a mugger.